Sagging

[WOLF]

Any Tricks On How To Measure And Maintain Sag When Pressing Deadends? Hard Angles?

[RDawgs]

We Take the conducter out of the angle blocks and lay it with a cut piece of plastic guy guard on the inside angle of the angle pin. If it is a running corner/angle we remove the block from bell or inulator and again use a cut piece of guy guard in the angle shoe and begin your sag.

[WOLF]

Ya not quite what i meant by that post. What im referring to is when you have sagged your conductor and there happens to be deadends between your soft side and hard side. What methods do you use to maintain sag when deadending using pressed deadend bodys (not mechanical)?

[Highplains Drifter]

Wolf, you still are not clear (in my mind), how can one have dead ends between a soft side and a hard side? Is there a slack span in between? I'd be using a dyno for each span and each dead end.

[Highplains Drifter]

We Take the conducter out of the angle blocks and lay it with a cut piece of plastic guy guard on the inside angle of the angle pin. If it is a running corner/angle we remove the block from bell or inulator and again use a cut piece of guy guard in the angle shoe and begin your sag.

RDawgs, I have never used pressed dead ends on distribution. You must be using some very large conductor.

[Edge]

gotta agree with drifter..
dyno on the taker upper and a fuggin folding rule so they are all the same...

works for what ever wire your workin...

for what it's worth..

Edge

[Special ED]

Dyno or a sag watch works great for me.. Dead end your puller side first and work your way back to the take off pole cuttin in all the double deadends, ect before you get to the take off.

Not sure if that helps with your question cause the question didn't make much sense to me. Then again i have been drinking today.

[wtdoor67]

My first question, since your profile isn't clear, are you by chance an apprentice or in a school?

If an apprentice then why doesn't your senior hands demonstrate how to do this?

I am no expert on pressed deadends, but have done a few. Basically you measure from the point of attachment of your insulator to the point you intend to cut the wire, which as I remember would be on the steel DE body where the wire stops. Make note of this measurement with the hardware laid out on the ground as it would be when installed. Up the pole you go and with your ruler measure carefully and mark it with probably a magic marker, catch it off with hoist and grip and cut. Then slide on your alum body over the tail and push it on out of your way. As I remember we trimmed the wire strands approx. 1/2 inch past the end of the steel body to allow for expansion of the steel body. Then simple press it, slack off the hoist etc. and slide your alum body up over the steel, change your dies and press the alum. If you measured correctly and carefully when you slack off, it will be exactly the same tension as when you started.

I've never seen anyone be awful particular on distribution angles, or most others either. Always tried to position the stringing dolly to where it would cause the wire to be about the same distance from the pole as after it's made up. Angles should be clipped first, before the tangents as you will "push slack ahead of you" I was told. Most places in my experience aren't too sticky on distribution. However with contractors doing transmission, some co's stipulate that the wire only sit in the dollies for a certain time and be clipped in a certain time frame and other requirements that I wasn't privy to as I was rather junior during my construction experience of transmission lines.

If I left out anything on the steel compression DE's etc. there are plenty of people on here who have done mucho that will be glad to correct or add to.

[BookII]

There are a lot of tricks to cutting dead ends. First things first...always strectch your bells out on the ground some where and get an EXACT measurement. You can use the winch on the crummy, or cat. Get 'em nice and tight! Then take your measurement from the inside of your pinning point of your shackle, to where your cut mark is on your body. That will be the cut mark everyone should follow, and DO NOT deviate from that! Especially on bundle.

Then when you sqaure your wire, mark it from the inside pinning point on your dead end plate on the tower side. And what ever the length of your sqaure is, deduct that from your measurement of your cut mark.

I know....sounds confusing, but it's actually quite simple. It's alot easier to show one hands on than it is trying to explain word for word here.

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

There are a lot of tricks to cutting dead ends. First things first...always strectch your bells out on the ground some where and get an EXACT measurement. You can use the winch on the crummy, or cat. Get 'em nice and tight! Then take your measurement from the inside of your pinning point of your shackle, to where your cut mark is on your body. That will be the cut mark everyone should follow, and DO NOT deviate from that! Especially on bundle.

Then when you sqaure your wire, mark it from the inside pinning point on your dead end plate on the tower side. And what ever the length of your sqaure is, deduct that from your measurement of your cut mark.

I know....sounds confusing, but it's actually quite simple. It's alot easier to show one hands on than it is trying to explain word for word here.

This is the same way I do it. Right on every time. One job, I squared 12 double deadends with a square I made out of #4 hard drawn copper. Could hardly believe it myself, they were all dead nuts.

[Edge]

good stuff Book!! ... I always used a carpenters square on bundle works for tri an quad too... and it's always perfect... never thought of it as a trick though... just how it was done....
but work in the big sky has gotten thin especially bundle... and a lot of knowledge has been lost... glad to see cats like you keepin it up... and if I ain't said it yet....

welcome to the board bub...

for what it's worth...

Edge

[Edge]

This is the same way I do it. Right on every time. One job, I squared 12 double deadends with a square I made out of #4 hard drawn copper. Could hardly believe it myself, they were all dead nuts.

yeah you can always tell bundle jobs that won't squared...

I'll be driving down the interstate to some fuggin place the wife wants to go and go by a 230 or 500 turn around and mutter something like "who the fu(k did road side" and the wife will go "huh" nothing hun... they just messed it up...

"oh your buildin lines"

yeah baby....

usually the ones that aren't squared have a mean turn to them and the yoke plate in the loop strings sorta kicks up... man does it look awful from the road...

and it's funny you can usually tell if the lineman was left handed...

trust me you can...

for what it's worth...

Edge

[jmorehouse24]

Ya not quite what i meant by that post. What im referring to is when you have sagged your conductor and there happens to be deadends between your soft side and hard side. What methods do you use to maintain sag when deadending using pressed deadend bodys (not mechanical)?

When making up the double dead-ends between the soft and hard sides, make sure your insulators and jewelry are nice and tight when you stretch them out on the ground to measure your hard mark. Hard mark is measured from the center of your pinning shackle on the cold end of the assembly, to where you will be cutting the steel(somewhere in the middle of the steel splice). Once you have your hard marks, no matter how many clicks you come up or down, as long as those marks are right, then your sag will stay the same. Don't forget that hard mark on the wire needs to be measured from the pinning point on the structure. If you just measure from the center of the traveller then you will be adding wire into the sag.

When hardsiding, it is important to do all 3 phases the same. If you come up 5 clicks for loss on a Jet hoist, make sure you use the same hoist and come up 5 clicks on all the rest. Even if you lose a little sag, or gain some, all 3 phases will be the same. If you use a Jet hoist on one and a Coffin hoist on another it is gonna be real hard to get them exactly the same and stay close to final sag.

[BookII]

This is the same way I do it. Right on every time. One job, I squared 12 double deadends with a square I made out of #4 hard drawn copper. Could hardly believe it myself, they were all dead nuts.

I actually prefer to use a new 6' plastic folding ruler. They lock at a 90 degree angle, light weight, and easy to use. That is until you drop it and watch it bounce off of every piece of lacing below!:eek: :D

[BookII]

good stuff Book!! ... I always used a carpenters square on bundle works for tri an quad too... and it's always perfect... never thought of it as a trick though... just how it was done....
but work in the big sky has gotten thin especially bundle... and a lot of knowledge has been lost... glad to see cats like you keepin it up... and if I ain't said it yet....

welcome to the board bub...

for what it's worth...

Edge

Thanks Edge! I'm only passing on what was passed on to me...